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Parrot Care is the Key to Having a Happy, Healthy Parrot
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Learn How to Care For Your Parrot
You might have adopted a parrot because of your fancy for it. But proper care for this pet is very important. You should know what is good and harmful to him/her.
Adopting a parrot can be very exciting, but it brings with it the responsibility of providing your parrot care. Parrot care needs to be thought about and acted upon, to make sure your pet parrot remains happy and healthy.
Parrot Care
Parrot care is a huge responsibility of the owner. While there are no guarantees that your parrot will never suffer from an illness over its lifetime, preventive measure such as vaccination and good diet will give your parrot the best chance for a healthy lifestyle.
As a parrot owner, you have to give more time and attention to your parrot. Also, you have to give more consideration to commitment to your parrot’s needs. A parrot is a social animal. When left alone in a cage for long period of time, your parrot could become depressed, lethargic, and lose confidence. Have patience and give the care and attention he/she deserves.
Parrot Health
To prevent the possibility of health problems or you notice signs of illness in your pet parrot, take him/her immediately to the vet. If your parrot fears the vet, you can take some of your parrot’s favorite foods to help them overcome initial fear.
Also, if you have to keep your parrot healthy, keep the cage and surrounding areas clean all the time. An unclean environment is a perfect breeding place for all sorts of germs that can make your parrot ill.
Parrot Diet
As parrot owner, you have to feed your parrot carefully to ensure proper development and growth. For best and longer life, a well balanced parrot diet is mandatory. But what should be considered in choosing a good parrot diet? Seek your avian vet’s advice, guidance and any information you need to ensure that you provide the best diet suited to your parrot’s special needs. Remember to choose food wisely because poor nutrition can damage your parrot’s health. Giving your parrot good and a proper diet even at an early stage will give them significant growth.
A key to having a healthy parrot is the giving them a daily balanced diet. This can prevent not only health problems but behavioral problems as well. Unbalanced diet can cause disease in your parrot and at worst result in death.
Parrot Cage
If you want to produce a happy parrot, you have to place your pet in a good cage. Parrot cage is not only useful for your parrot’s relaxation and comfort but also necessary for parrot breeding. Always consider that when you buy a parrot cage, your parrot can freely move in the cages.
In buying a parrot cage, consider the size of the parrot and the size of the parrot cage. Get the right kind of cage size for your parrot.
Parrot Tricks
Parrot’s are highly intelligent and can learn really fast. With proper training and care your parrot can learn all sorts of tricks as well as possibly talking. Some things like step up can aid in their care.
Make sure that the training area is free from distractions in order that your parrot can give more attention. Less distraction means more attention. Also, consider that the training area is far from the parrot’s own cage.
Parrot Cages Buyers Guide and Other Things to Consider
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You put a lot of efforts and time into your research and finally chose the bird that perfectly matches your personality and your life style. Now it’s time to make your home a cozy and safe place for your new family member – let’s choose a cage!
The cage has to be comfortable and safe for the bird and your home, it should have plenty of room for your bird to stretch and play, be easy to keep up, so your bird will be happy and healthy camper and great company to enjoy for all your family.
Size and Bar Spacing, Shape, Style, Upkeep and Construction Elements, Cage Materials, Accessories and Cage Location need to be given special consideration. Bird Cage Size and Bar Spacing
General rule of thumb – choose the biggest safe cage you can afford with appropriate bar spacing for your bird.
For small birds bar spacing should be less then ½ in, for medium birds – ½ in to ¾ in, for larger birds – ¾ in to 1 ¼ inch. Too narrow bar spacing will limit visibility for you and your bird, but too wide spacing may allow your bird’s head to slip between bars and get stuck.
Here is suggested bar spacing and gauge guidelines for the Parrot species:
Small Parrots – Badgies/Parakeets, Lovebirds, Meyers, Parrotlets Bar spacing – Up to ½” Bar gauge – > 2.3mm
Medium Parrots – Caiques, Cockatiels, Conures, Lorikeets, Pionuses, Quakers, Cape/Un-Cape Parrots, Red-Bellied Parrots, Senegals Bar spacing – ½” to ¾” Bar gauge – 2.5mm to 4mm
Large Parrots – African Greys, Amazons, Cockatoos (small to large – Goffin – Umbrella), Mini Macaws (Hahn’s, Noble, Illeger’s, Severe, Yellow-Collared) Bar spacing – ¾” to 1″ Bar gauge – 4mm to 5mm
X-Large Parrots – Cockatoos (Lg – Glossy Cockatoos, Moluccans, Palm Cockatoos, Red tailed, Carnaby’s White-Tailed Black Cockatoos, Sulphur Crested), Macaws (Lg) – Blue & Gold, Catalina, Green-Winged, Harlequin, Hyacinth, Scarlet Bar spacing – 1″ to 1 ¼” Bar gauge – >=5mm
Remember your bird’s tail feathers shouldn’t touch side or bottom of the cage when it sits on the perch, as it may damage its feathers. One and a half of your feathered friend wings span is a minimum measurement for the width of the cage (or diameter if the cage is round) – it will basically allow bird to stretch. Suggested Cage Width Minimum within safe Bar Spacing:
Small Parrots – Badgies/Parakeets – >=18 in, Lovebirds, Meyers, Parrotlets >=20 in.
Medium Parrots – Caiques, Cockatiels, Conures, Lorikeets, Pionuses, Quakers, Cape/Un-Cape Parrots, Red-Bellied Parrots, Senegals >=24 in.
Large Parrots – African Greys, Amazons, Cockatoos (small to medium) >=32 in; Mini Macaws (Hahn’s, Noble, Illeger’s, Severe, Yellow-Collared) – >=36 in.
X-Large Parrots – Cockatoos (Lg – Glossy Cockatoos, Moluccans, Palm Cockatoos, Red tailed, Carnaby’s White-Tailed Black Cockatoos)>= 40 in, Macaws (Lg) – Blue & Gold, Catalina, Green-Winged, Harlequin, Hyacinth, Scarlet >=48 in.
The best bird’s fly cages are ones that wide rather than tall – since naturally birds fly in horizontal direction from side to side of the cage not up and down. For breeding, small and larger birds and/or warmer climates – Aviary is good and happy place for your parrot to catch fresh air and stretch its wings. Even if your bird was born in a cage its feathered ancestors were wild once – and they had all the freedom to fly, forage and play in their native environment. In its new cage the bird will spend lots of the time – eating, stretching, playing, so make it easy on your friend, for its health and sanity – invest as much as you can to make its home spacious and comfortable.
Shape
Cage shape is often gets overlooked – generally people tend to choose what they like or what they think will fit in the house – but your feathered friend has its own needs:
Better to choose rectangular cage than round one. In round cage bird fills unprotected – naturally it needs a corner to escape if it gets frightened or startled. But if you still tend toward round – good alternatives are octagon cages or ¼ of circle corner cages (a space saver as well).
Style
Dome top or play top cage. If you have play top style cage it will eliminate the necessity to buy a parrot’s play-stand and headache where to put it if you have a space constriction, but on the other side of equation are play-stand maneuverability (you can move your beloved parrot and enjoy its company anywhere in your home), higher cost of play top parrot cages and some inconveniences on using cage cover over the play tops.
Upkeep and useful construction elements
Your life would be much easier and you will enjoy your parrot company more if its’ cage wouldn’t demand a lot of time and effort to keep it clean and safe.
Bar placement: Bars should be parallel – NO divergent bars – entrapment hazard.
Horizontal bars in your bird’s cage let your feathered friend climb up and down so it gets plenty of natural exercise. Vertical bars’ placement on front panel of the cage allows better view for you and your bird. At the same time cages with cross wire may catch feathers and may also restrict good grip for the larger birds to climb. A cage with elaborate decorative elements may look cool (especially antique ones) but bird can get caught in their ornate elements and hurt itself. Another big NO for antique cages – as they very well may contain toxic metals or may be constructed from materials that can be easily chewed.
Bar attachment: Look for well, smooth welded or casted (molded) bar placement as drilled holes that hold bars on the frame collect moisture and bacteria.
Wire cages may be strong enough for the small birds, but larger parrots need wrought iron or stainless steel cages to sustain their avian curiosity – look for specific bar gauge guidance for your particular species. Almost all wire cages have some kind of covering (plastic or metal plating – usually with nickel, chromium, zinc, copper or brass) – to protect bird from bare metal and to protect metal from oxidation and corrosion. Some parrots could manage to shave-detach pieces of wire covering – be aware that some of these metals could cause heavy metal poisoning in birds.
Tray – Removable tray is a must.
Grate – Look for removable grate. If you have an escape artist on your hands it’s better also to have a spare grate to put in place of removed for cleaning. Another important thing is the placement of the grate. It should be high enough not to let your bird to pick its droppings from the bottom tray.
Feeding doors – swing solid doors for feeding cups are very convenient options too. It keeps most of the food spitting inside of the cage and protects you from beaky parrot.
Access doors – Look for full swing full size (from top to grate) access doors for easy handling your bird and preventing toes pinching – some parrots love hanging on open doors. If cage has several access doors – it gives you flexibility of cage placement and access to your bird.
Perch and toys placement – Assess your future cage for desirable perch(es) and toys placements – it’s better if cage has enough options where you can put perch(es) and some hardware that allow you safely to attach bird’s toys (one for small cages, 2 or more for larger cages).
Seed skirts proved to be very useful in keeping your parrot forage inside the cage. Look for rounded corners for your own protection.
Padlocks should be parrot-prove to keep inside even advanced escapee. Also see warning below regarding padlocks’ materials.
Cage Materials
You should approach your parrot safety in your home with the same care as you would for your child. It became apparent that there are many health issues for birds with materials used in cages and many other common household items. Please check our detailed article about heavy metals and other toxic substances that your parrot may get accidentally exposed to. Here we give only short summary of materials that you bird can access in its cage. Commonly agreed toxic metals (alloys) Substance: Lead – Highly toxic to birds. Can be found: Cage paint, Household paint, paint primers, in soldering metal – soldered joints in cage (distinguished from welded joints), foil on wine bottles, champagne wire Exposure: Beak activity – scratching, chewing, climbing on its cage with beak
Substance: Zinc – Highly toxic to birds Can be found: Cage paint, Household paint, paint primers, galvanized cage wires and mesh of outdoor aviaries (galvanization – term used only for zinc plating) Exposure: Beak activity – scratching, chewing, climbing on its cage with beak
Substance: Copper (especially Oxidized) Can be found: Copper plating, copper food containers, copper plumbing Exposure: Chewing on its cage decorative copper plated elements, ingesting acidic food stored in copper food containers, drinking water from your home water supply if you have copper plumbing and your water is slightly acidic.
Substance: Brass (alloy of copper and zinc)
Can be found: Usually used in padlocks, in soldering metal – soldered joints in cage (distinguished from welded joints), and some cage hardware as well
Exposure: It’s probably OK for small bird who is unlikely to chew a padlock, but should be avoided around larger parrots
Substance: “Galvanized tin”(misused term for sheet metal -galvanized steel; and small galvanized containers) Can be found: May be used in aviaries (especially self made – to withstand the elements and self made cages – trays), small galvanized containers Exposure: Beak activity – scratching, chewing, climbing
Substance: Iron, Oxidized iron (rust) Can be found: Cage wires, frame, hardware Exposure: After coating wears off (paint, powder coat or plating) – it exposes underlying iron to oxidation and can be ingested by your parrot during his usual beak activity
Substance: Chromium (III and VI) Can be found: Plating, colored leather (Chromium salts) Exposure: Beak activity – scratching, chewing, climbing on its cage with beak
Substance: Cobalt Can be found: Electroplating, ground coats for porcelain enamel, batteries Exposure: Beak activity – scratching, chewing, climbing on its cage with beak
Potentially toxic metals (alloys) – some experts listed them as safe, but there are publications documenting wild birds toxicity in polluted habitats and poultry toxicity as well with elevated level in food intake (please investigate to your own satisfaction and make your own decision)
Substance: Nickel Can be found: In plating – cage wire and hardware (screws, padlocks, hinges) Exposure: Beak activity – scratching, chewing, climbing on its cage with beak
Substance: Tin Can be found: In soldering metal – soldering joints in cage (distinguished from welded joints), in pewter, in cans Exposure: Beak activity – scratching, chewing, climbing on its cage with beak
Substance: Aluminum and its salts Can be found: Aluminum foil, soda cans and parts in birds toys, food containers Exposure: Beak activity – scratching, chewing, climbing on its cage with beak
Most of parrot aluminum toxicity cases that were documented connected to heated aluminum foil – which is mostly attributed to fumes from its non-stick polymer additives Nontoxic metals (alloys) Substance: Stainless Steel Can be found: Cage wire, frame, hardware Exposure: Very hard metal alloy almost impossible for your parrot to scratch, chew or detach with usual beak activity
In short – ingesting any paint, any kind of metal or any not-food item is never a good thing – doesn’t matter how safe it is. There are no standards for safe levels of toxic metals and other toxins established for birds. Birds’ digestive system with gizzard (pH 2.0, and 42C) allows some non-food items sit there for prolong time releasing toxins or causing obstruction, impaction, bleeding and death (like corn cobs that absorb moisture and swell and could stay in gizzard for years!). If you noticed that your parrot is using its cage as a chewing toy – strongly consider buying a stainless steel cage – there is nothing to detach and to ingest.
Lead and Zinc – highly toxic for birds and the most common source of poisoning in parrots associated with cage materials. If your cage paint, material or hardware contain these metals it more likely will cause heavy metal poisoning in your parrot. The bigger the parrot the bigger the danger – the larger bird can easily scratch, shave or detach by chewing up some pieces of softer metals or paint.
Paint – always check with manufacturer regarding Lead and Zinc content. Powder coating is much stronger than regularly applied paint that easily flakes (can be ingested), and let the cage rust. Structured surface of powder coating also provides better grip for bird. If you decided to restore an old cage, please, make sure you use safe methods to clean the rust, and use not only bird-safe paint, but bird-safe primer as well.
Plating – process used to coat one metal (alloy) with other metal (alloy) to prevent underlying metal from oxidation and to make it look better – used on cage wires, wires or mesh in outdoor aviaries, hardware and some metal parts of bird’s toys. Nickel plating considered by many to be safe, but be aware and distinguish it from Zinc plating – galvanization. The danger of any plating – it could chip or peel (bird could ingest the particles) exposing underlying metal to oxidation and rust which is not good either.
Play it safe – check all metals in your bird cage and on your birds toys regularly for chipping, peeling, rust & oxidation.
Accessories
Toys – happy parrot beside your company needs lots of toys. It will keep bird from feathers plucking out of simple boredom, and also to prevent other health and behavioral issues. You need to consider how much space the toys will take from the cage interior when choosing the cage. Look for toys made by reputable manufacturer rather than artisans. Even though it’s not a guarantee but much probable that toys from manufacturer will have consistent safe structural elements as well as safe materials you can inquire about.
Feeding & drinking bowls – for your bird’s health invest in stainless steel bowls – they are easy to clean too.
Cage covers – to cover or not to cover. In nature most of the parrots live in tropical latitude – their native day and night are approximately 12 hours all year around. So unless you live in the same place and function in a similar manner cage cover will encourage 10 to 12 hours of sleep for your parrot, in some circumstances it also can help stressed bird to relax.
Cage Location
Parrots are highly sociable creatures they love to be with family, they need to socialize with their owners. This usually determine cage placement where family gathers – living room, family room or your office if you spend most of your day time there and your profession allowed your parrot vocalization.
Never place the cage in kitchen or any room with direct conjunction to the cooking area (open style family rooms) – most of the cooking vapors dangerous to parrots gentle respiratory system. Also there are dangers of bird flying into some hot pots, pans, oils; eating something not intended/toxic for parrot, Teflon vapors, sharp cutlery and so on…
Place cage against the wall or in a corner allowing your bird interact with family and feel secure – not in the middle of the room where it will be always in people’s way and bird can easily be startled with sudden movement or agitated with excessive activity around it.
In their native environment birds dwell in trees high above the ground, the best height for the bird in a house is human chest level – place your cage on a stand rather than directly on a floor – your parrot will feel more secure and relaxed – it may even cure some behavioral problems.
Location should allow enough natural light and view if possible (birds love look outside of the window) but never against the window. Direct sun may raise temperature substantially and dehydrate the bird as it can’t escape.
Avoid position in direct draft area or under the conditioner as well as heating outlet.
Bird shouldn’t have access to power outlets and power wires – parrots may use outlets holes to climb and chew on wires.
Household plants can create lovely canopy around your bird’s cage but consider their safety to your parrot.
This simple consideration will make your parrot right and comfortable in its new home – enjoy its company!
* – All the information provided is collective from many sources over the Internet, birds owners, breeders and other public sources. It’s provided for your convenience only and does not represent any warranties or promises. If in doubt – always contact your avian veterinarian and manufacturer of the product in question.
Keep Your Parrot Happy with Safe Parrot Toys
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You are the proud owner of a parrot and you are looking for a toy for your pet. The offer of parrot toys on the market is huge, so how do you know which parrot toy is safe for your pet? Because you should be aware that some of them are dangerous for pets as they may hurt them. Therefore, an important parrot care issue is its toys.
The first aspect you should take into consideration when buying a parrot toy is the size of the toy and the size of the pet. Basically the parrot toy should fit the size of your parrot. Why is that? Well, because a big size parrot is strong and can easily break a small toy into pieces which can be easily ingested by your pet. Therefore, try to avoid small parrot toys if your pet is big. You should know that nowadays there is a large array of big parrot toys which are made from thick plastic, perfect for a big strong-beaked parrot.
Things aren’t easy with small parrots wither. A small size parrot can be afraid of a big toy so try to fit the size of the toy to the one of the pet. If you can’t tell which parrot toy is good for your pet, look at the label or ask for more information.
Another important aspect is the type of the parrot toy. You should avoid buying parrot toys which are made out of small pieces as the parrot can remove them and, consequently digest them. Remember that a parrot has a strong beak therefore any piece which is bite-size for the parrot should not be on the toy.
A parrot toy is usually hanging on some chains. These chains can represent a possible danger for the health or life of your pet. How is this possible? Well, chains come in two types: the chains with welded links (which are safe for your parrot) and the chains with closed links (which are not safe). The parrot may try to open up the link which is not weld and its beak would get stuck in that space. The parrot may get hurt while trying to release itself. Consequently, examine carefully the chains attached to your parrot toys.
But the chains are not the only dangerous pieces of a parrot toy. Parrot toys made out of wood may also be dangerous. Therefore, wood is another important aspect to think of. Parrots are birds which love to chew wood. They do this to find bugs hidden inside the tree bark in the woods. So a parrot will always start chewing a toy made out of wood. Some types of wood are not good for parrots, so you should check the internet for a list of parrot-safe wood.
Parrots are also birds which enjoy preening and grooming. Their instinct is telling them to constantly pick or even chew their feathers. This is not a healthy habit for your pet. So you should buy a chew rope, which is a very useful parrot toy as it allows your pet to exercise its habit every day without causing any problems to itself. But pay attention to the deterioration of the toy as it gets extremely ragged and worn out. Replace it with a new toy as the clumps may cause accidents to your pet. Your parrot could catch its feet into the clumps and could get hurt while struggling to escape.
In conclusion, there is only one rule to apply for this parrot care issues: whenever shopping for a parrot toy use the common sense rule. If you look at a parrot toy and it doesn’t seem safe, don’t buy it. Don’t buy any parrot toys which can get ingested or which can get a foot or a beak caught inside them. And always examine the parrot toys carefully before putting them into your pet’s cage.
And if your parrot is ignoring its new, shiny toy, don’t worry. It doesn’t hate it, it is just being cautious. Parrots don’t like change, like most pets. And a new toy represents an unexpected change for their habitat. Therefore, the toy must be put under strict observation to make sure it is not a possible enemy. After two or three weeks of monitoring the intruder (the toy) the parrot will gain confidence into its new toy and it will start playing with it!
The cage is your beloved parrot’s home. Any living being should have good home so you have to be sure that you can provide your parrot with the best conditions. Also if you choose the parrot cage wisely than you will avoid some parrot care problems that can appear in the future.
The parrot cage should be the largest expense after practically buying the parrot. So if you are going to spend some money then be sure to spend them on a good deal.
The parrot is going to spend a lot of time in the cage so you’ll have to choose the right one for your pet. There are three parrot care issues that you should take in consideration when you are decided to buy a parrot cage. The most important parrot care issue is you bird’s safety. There are many cases where parrots got injured or killed because of their cage.
I will try to discuss al this three parrot care points that you should have in mind when you are going to buy a parrot cage.
Safety – Like i already said safety is the most important thing when choosing a parrot cage. You can find Knock down cages on the market. You you buy one of those than you’ll have to examine it very good to see if there are any pieces that can be easily removed by you parrot. If there are than i don’t advice you to buy this kind of parrot cages because the little pieces can be swallowed by you parrot.
The majority of parrot cages i saw in pet stores are built from different metals like wire, stainless steel, zinc. From what i found so far the wire parrot cages are the most economical. but you mustn’t forget to inspect the cage regularly for broken welds or broken wires.
You can find metal parrot cages at a medium prices on the market. This parrot cages are built in a variety of metals shapes and colors.
The most expensive parrot cage that you can find in your search is the Stainless steel cage. The advantages of this type of parrot cages is that they will never rust or cause metal poisoning. So i think that if you are ready to make a good deal, buying a stainless steal parrot cage would be the perfect choice. Even if it’s expensive i can ensure you that you’ll never have to replace it.
One important safety issue is the bar spacing. When you buy a parrot cage make sure that the bar spacing is smaller than you parrot’s head. This way you can be sure that your pet’s head won’t get stuck between the bars.
Size – another important aspect for a parrot cage is it’s size. The best thing you can do is to go to a pet store and buy the largest parrot cage that you can find in your budget range. A big parrot cage gives more freedom to your parrot and it will have a happier life. Keep in mind that the width of the parrot cage is more important than the height. Mostly, your parrot will fly from side to side.
The components of the parrot cage is the last but not least of the important aspects when buying parrot cages. Swing out feeders are a good way to feed your parrot especially the aggressive ones.
You can also buy food dishes for you parrot cage. This accessories also come in different styles and colors.
Try to find a parrot cage that has an entry door big enough to get the bird out easily. Remember that parrots are very smart so they can learn how to open the cage doors. If this happens then you will have to take some security measures and ad some new components so the parrot won’t be able to open the door anymore.
Also try to look for a parrot cage with removable litter trays. This way You will clean the cage with no effort and your bird won’t reach the old left over food.
In conclusion if you want a happy and healthy parrot you must provide him with a good home. If the parrot cage meets all he parrot care aspects that i mentioned above then you can be sure that your pet will live healthy in peace.
Parrot Rescue – Michigan Has an Answer
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Pet parrot rescue in Michigan is an example of what it should be in every state and in every country. KARE, a pet parrot rescue group in Michigan, is in business not only to rescue unwanted pet parrots. They also adopt out pet parrots that have been rescued, and educate people about parrots. Reading their mission statement is encouraging. In it they state that they believe
all pet birds deserve quality care, love, and respect. They also believe there should be a place where bird owners can find the most current bird care information possible.
The pet parrot rescue in Michigan puts its mission statement to work in many ways. Usually this means parrot rescue on a small scale. Perhaps the biggest parrot rescue project in recent years was the one that followed Hurricane Katrina. KARE deployed rescuers to Baton Rouge, Louisiana in support of Hurricane Katrina’s bird victims, parrots or not. The parrot rescuers joined the huge animal rescue effort that was just getting underway. Pet parrot rescue in Michigan became pet parrot rescue in Louisiana.
How It Works
Pet parrot rescue in Michigan, KARE takes its name from the words Knapptime, Adoption, Rescue, and Education. Those three branches form the basis for any successful parrot rescue program.
1. Rescue: Parrot rescue always begins with rescuing pet parrots. This does not always mean rescue such as was needed after Hurricane Katrina. It may be as simple as accepting, from owners, pet parrots that are no longer wanted. Parrots can live for 50 years or more. Many owners do not think about that when purchasing a parrot. Some time later, as the owner’s life changes, he or she can no longer care for the parrot. In some cases, the owner dies, and the parrot is left behind. In other cases, the parrot becomes aggressive, and the owner no longer wants the pet. Parrot rescue accepts these parrots and cares for them.
2. Adoption: Parrot rescue involves finding new homes for parrots that have been rescued. This is easy with some parrots. They are well behaved, beautiful, and talkative. The adopting family can get a good pet for less than they would pay elsewhere. Finding homes for some rescued parrots is more difficult. The bird may need training to correct behavioral problems. It may have been neglected or abused. The parrot rescue group must evaluate the rescued parrots, and find appropriate homes. In some case, the best home must be a shelter or sanctuary, since it will never again do well in a pet situation.
3. Education: The third prong involved in parrot rescue is education. The pet parrot rescue in Michigan works to educate people who are interested in bird ownership. They want to help them learn the proper care of pet birds. This includes instruction before purchase about the bird’s expected life span. It includes information about proper feeding of parrots and how large a cage a parrot needs. Parrot rescue also should educate people about the options they have if they find they cannot keep a parrot.
If You Need Parrot Rescue
People who reach a point where they cannot keep a pet parrot should contact a place such as this pet parrot rescue in Michigan. Similar parrot rescue groups exist in a number of states.
The reasons for being unable to keep your parrot may be as simple as being unable to afford proper care for the bird. You may have insufficient finances to take the parrot to a veterinarian.
Some people cannot keep a parrot when they relocate overseas. Even relocation that involves a smaller home, or an apartment, may make it logistically impossible to keep the bird.
You could try to sell your parrot, and some people do. Prospective owners may be leery, though, of buying a parrot from a newspaper classified as. They may have heard of parrots that are sold because of aggression. Donating your pet parrot to a parrot rescue group will not give you money in return, but you will know that the parrot will be placed in the right permanent home.
Parrot rescue groups often have waiting lists of adoptive homes. They do everything they can to be sure the bird gets the best possible home.
Kudos for You
Parrot rescue groups often operate in the red. It is costly to care for a number of parrots and other birds. They require numerous cages, hundreds of pounds of food on a regular basis, and modest salaries for their workers.
You will be greatly appreciated when you donate, with your parrot, its cage, perches, playground, toys, and food.
Parrot Cages – All I Want Is a Cage Somewhere
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The 1964 musical “My Fair Lady” features a song entitled “Wouldn’t It Be Loverly?” with music by Frederick Loewe, lyrics by Alan Jay Lerner. In that song, Eliza sings: “All I want is a room somewhere, Far away from the cold night air, With one enormous chair. Oh, wouldn’t it be loverly?”
Parrots, were they able to verbalize, might sing a similar tune: “All I want is a cage somewhere, Strong and spacious, but not too bare, With tender, loving care. Oh, wouldn’t it be loverly?”
Parrot Cages
Just as parrots come in many sizes, parrot cages vary from small to large. They come in rectangles and cylinders, plain and fancy. Parrot cages can be difficult to purchase, and the savvy buyer will do research before attempting to do so. Four of the factors to be considered are given here, but you will want to discuss your final purchase with a knowledgeable dealer.
1. Parrot Breed and Size
The breed and size of your parrot figure strongly in the consideration of available parrot cages.
Large birds need sufficient space to stretch big wings, climb around, and enjoy healthy exercise. Large parrot cages are needed for parrots in the size range of African Grey Parrots, Amazons, Cockatoos, and Macaws. Large parrot cages should be made of steel or metal, and have a bar spacing of one or more inches. Any smaller spacing in large parrot cages will permit your parrot to get caught and injure itself.
Medium parrot cages are good for medium size parrots such as Caiques, Cockatiels, Conures, and Senegals. Medium parrot cages should have steel or metal bars spaced 1/2 to 5/8 inch apart. Parrot cages with larger or smaller bar spacing may allow your bird to be injured.
If you have a small parrot such as a Budgerigar (Budgie), Lovebird, or Parrotlet, you will need to look at small parrot cages. Small parrot cages also should be of steel or metal, since all parrots love to chew. Bar spacing should be 1/2 inch or less in small parrot cages.
2. Configuration
The configuration of parrot cages is the size and shape. Since parrots like to climb and fly, parrot cages need to be tall. Even the most basic, small parrot cages should be at least 7-8 inches taller than their width and depth. Dome tops are functional as well as attractive in parrot cages. The parrot will amuse itself climbing across the dome. Wide cages are important for larger parrots, as they will need to fly back and forth. While some parrot cages are built to resemble castles or Victorian homes, complete with turrets, one must be sure the décor does not involve sharp edges or small corners where a parrot can injure feet or beak.
3. Accessories
Accessories can go a long way toward making parrot cages “loverly” in the parrot’s thinking. Stands raise parrot cages to a higher level, allowing the bird to see more, and feel more a part of the “flock” in your home. Stands also give owners better access to their parrots. For parrots that crave more attention, parrot cages on wheeled stands can be moved from room to room.
Parrot cages can also be topped with exercise areas, providing entertainment and exercise when the parrot is out for play. Swings, ladders, toys, steps, and more can be included in playgrounds.
The feeder cups in parrot cages should be easily accessible, and should be made of steel, ceramic, or reinforced plastic. Parrots will chew on the cups as part of their exercise, and can readily destroy other materials.
Parrot cages require at least three different perches, each made of a different material. Rope, hardwood, and cement are three possibilities. Proper perches are important to the health of your parrot’s feet.
Cage covers are important additions to parrot cages, allowing your bird to get the right dark and light cycle to get sufficient rest.
4. Toys
Finally, all parrot cages will need convenient places to attach toys – and entertaining toys to be attached. Like parrot cages, parrot toys come in different sizes and materials to suit the breed of parrot. Parrot toys do not have to be elaborate. Toys may entertain, and may stimulate your bird intellectually, but their main purpose is to help parrots use the actions they would use in the wild. Toys help them “hunt” food, hide in the “leaves” of a tree, and exercise their beaks to keep them strong.
Toys in parrot cages can be for their feet, giving them foot exercise that helps them maintain dexterity. Toys may be filled with food that parrots must retrieve, chewing away obstacles as they would in the wild. Small mirrors in parrot cages allow the birds to converse with “friends” in the same tree.
Learn as much as you can about your parrot breed, and ask for appropriate toys that will meet the bird’s varied needs.
Conclusion: Parrot cages are a big investment. Be sure you shop carefully.
Parrot Adoption: What You Need To Know
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Two years ago, you simply could not resist those two brightly colored parrots in the pet store window. What a mistake! Now you want a new home for your parrots, and are thinking of selling them. If you place a short ad in the local newspaper, how will it read?
1. Virginia parrots for sale
2. Quaker parrots for sale
There are many ways to advertise, even with as few words as that, but do you really need to “sell” your parrots? Might you find a better home through parrot adoption?
What Is Parrot Adoption?
Parrot adoption is very much like baby adoption. Those who have parrots they cannot care for offer them to people who want a parrot. The adoptive parrot owners may not be able to afford the initial outlay, or they may simply want to give a good home to a parrot that must be relocated.
Parrot adoption does not always mean “free” parrots. The term is also used for inexpensive parrots purchased from former owners.
Finding Interested Homes
Parrot adoption requires good homes, of course, but how do you find them? One way to begin is to place a newspaper ad, as you would if you were selling. You might write: “Parrots for adoption” or “Quaker parrots for adoption to good homes” or “Adopt a parrot”.
If you are unsuccessful with ads, try contacting a parrot rescue foundation or parrot adoption organization. They may be able to put you in contact with someone wanting parrots like yours. They may have someone on their waiting lists.
Evaluating Prospective Homes
“But it’s just a parrot!” you squawk. Not really. It is a creature that will live many years. During those years, it will need health, safety, love, and happiness. You will want to try your best to provide those by asking a few questions of prospective owners – getting to know them a little. You will want to try, also, to ensure your parrot will not have to move soon again. For proper parrot adoption, begin with these questions.
1. Why do you want a parrot? One wrong answer is, “My child has been begging for one, and I think it would be cool to have a talking pet.”
2. Does anyone ever smoke in your home? Smoking can kill a parrot very rapidly, and you want assurance that yours will go to smoke-free homes.
3. What other pets do you own? Parrots have natural predators, and will not be safe or healthy if they share a home with one of them.
4. Can you afford to take the parrot to a veterinarian when necessary? Your parrots have a long life expectancy, and will need occasional visits to a veterinarian.
5. For other important questions, you should contact a parrot adoption group and get advice.
Delivering an Adopted Parrot
Once you have found good parrot adoption homes, you will want to do your best to make the transition smooth. Take your parrot’s cage (It’s his home, and you won’t need it.), his toys, perches, and the food to which he’s accustomed. Take time to get the parrot settled before you leave him. Be available to visit now and then during the first week, if asked.
The Other Side of Parrot Adoption
The flip side of parrot adoption is the adoptive family. Parrot adoption can be preferable to purchasing a baby parrot from parrot breeders or a pet store.
Your parrot will be far less expensive, in most cases. It will likely have a cage and accessories, as well, which will save money and time for you. Parrot adoption lets you skip the toddler and adolescent stages, and your bird will likely have a vocabulary, with knowledge of how to add to it. In some cases, an adopted parrot will know some tricks. It will be accustomed to human handling and – hopefully – enjoy it.
The Downside of Parrot Adoption
The upside outweighs the downside of parrot adoption, but there are things you should know.
1. How does the parrot behave? Parrot adoption is often initiated by an owner who does not want to deal with behavioral problems. The parrot may have become aggressive: biting and screeching. You will want to observe the parrot in its home before agreeing to adopt it.
2. Has the parrot ever been injured or struck with anything? You will have a lot of work to overcome this problem and get the parrot to bond with you.
3. Is the parrot healthy – and can you talk to his veterinarian? If the parrot has never been taken to a veterinarian, there may be hidden health concerns. If he has been taken, the veterinarian will be able to tell you about potential problems. Any prospective parrot adoption should include consideration of health information.
Finalizing Parrot Adoption
When you adopt a parrot, you adopt a long-term commitment. It will be your responsibility to care for the bird throughout its lifetime. It will give you affection, and will expect the same from you. Before you enter into parrot adoption, think it through carefully. Then enjoy your parrot fully.
Parrot Toys – Everything You Need to Know
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You already know that you need a LOT of toys to keep a parrot entertained if you have a parrot or several parrots. If you’re thinking about getting a parrot then get ready to hire a staff of Santa’s Elves because you’re going to need them. Most parrots love to destroy toys. This is a healthy, necessary, and required behavior. After food, water, and your attention, toys are probably the next most important things in your parrot’s world. Toys are not an optional accessory for you parrot; they are essential. Toys provide mental stimulation, physical stimulation, and keep your parrot’s beak trimmed.
Parrots spend a lot of time searching and foraging for food in the wild. This entertains them and stimulates them. In your home, the toys provide the necessary means for your parrot to entertain itself. Toys also provide the mental stimulation required by your parrot. Some experts say that the parrot’s emotional level is similar to a 2 year-old child. They also say their intelligence is similar to a 3 year-old child. So stimulating toys are just as necessary for you parrot as they are for a 2 or 3 year old child.
There is also another more tangible reason for providing toys for your parrot. Toys are required to keep your parrot’s beak trim. The beak is always growing much like out fingernails. Your parrot’s beak will become overgrown without something to chew on. This will require a trip to the vet, toweling, and filing of the beak. This is stressful to the parrot and can be avoided by providing toys for your parrot to chew up and destroy.
2 – What Are the Types of Toys?
There are several types of toys. These are general categories and some toys fall into several of the categories. Some are designed to give your parrot mental exercise such as Puzzle Toys. Some are designed to give your parrot physical exercise such as Exercise Toys, and Grasping Toys. Finally, some are designed to give your parrot a healthy beak and healthy feathers such as Chew Toys and Preening Toys.
* Puzzle Toys – These are typically puzzles with treats inside them. They encourage the parrot to solve the puzzle to earn the treat. Some are simple lids on boxes and some are complex and require the parrot to unscrew nuts from bolts to open a treat holder.
* Exercise Toys – These are typically rings or ladders that encourage your parrot to climb, hang, or swing.
* Grasping Toys – These are “hand” held toys and other toys that encourage your parrot to hold them while playing with them. This encourages your parrot to exercise its “hands”.
* Chew Toys – These are for shredding. They keep your parrot’s beak trim.
* Preening Toys – These are typically hanging toys that encourage your parrot to preen them. The theory is that if your bird preens it’s toys then it will be encouraged to preen itself. Preening is necessary for your parrot to maintain healthy feathers.
3 – Important Toy Safety Issues
There are several things to avoid when buying or making toys. These include safety issues with your parrot consuming the toy and other physical safety concerns. Some materials to avoid include toxic inks, staples, rubber, Styrofoam, soft plastic and costume jewelry. These items are potential dangerous items if your parrot ingests them. There are also items that pose a physical danger. These items include key-chain rings, frayed ropes, and a crowded cage. Key chain rings can potentially get caught on you parrot’s beak or their nails. Frayed ropes are also potentially dangerous if your parrot’s feet get tangled in the frayed ends. Finally, a crowded cage can be dangerous if your parrot doesn’t have room to spread its wings.
Leather strips are often used to tie toy parts together. If you’re using your own leather strips then make sure they are not dyed, tanned, or treated in any way. If there is a doubt then don’t use it. Glue is often used to glue toy parts together such as Popsicle sticks. Make sure you use a non-toxic glue such as Kid-Safe glues if you use glue and use as little as possible.
Glues should be avoided when making toys unless necessary. A “Kid-Safe” glue that is non-toxic should be used if required and you should use as little as possible.
One final consideration regarding safety is toys mixed with food or treats. Some toys have treats in them or fastened to them. This is acceptable and this type of toys is one of the parrot’s favorite toys. However, flavoring toys with food can be dangerous and should be avoided. This happens when some people make toys and want to color the toys. The coloring should be non-toxic and food free. If it tastes like food or a treat then your parrot may consume it. If you want to dye wood blocks then use a nonflavored coloring for the same reason. Some people recommend food coloring or unsweetened Kool-Aid to color your wood blocks.
4 – What Makes a Toy a Good Toy?
There are several factors that make a toy a “Good Toy”. The most important factor is that the toy must be safe. The previous section listed some materials to avoid. This section lists some characteristics that make a toy a “Good Toy”.
* Colorful – Parrots can see colors.
* Chewable – This will help keep their beak trim.
* Different Textures – Parrots “feel” with their beaks and can distinguish different textures.
* Appropriate Size – Buying or making your toys the appropriate size is a key consideration.
* Mentally Challenging – The toys should be mentally challenging such as Treats inside Toys.
* Quick Links – Also called “C clips” or “C clamps”. They have a screw fastener and are shaped like a “C”
* Moving Parts – Parrots love a lot of moving part and swinging parts.
* Makes Noise – Parrots love bells and musical toys.
* Puzzles – Some “puzzles” are simple (lid on a box) and some are very complex.
5 – Where Can I Get Toys?
Now we know what makes a dangerous toy and what makes a good toy. There are a few places/means to get toys. You can purchase them at pet stores or on the Internet. This is the easiest and most convenient way to get toys. You can also build your own toys. These are referred to as DIY (Do-It-Yourself) toys. This is the cheapest way to get toys. Finally, you can do a combination of buying, building, and recycling which for most people is a happy medium.
Buying toys at pet stores or online is very convenient. There are two key considerations necessary before buying the toys. These are material and size. Toys come in a variety of materials and are often a mix of the following materials. The common toy materials are wood, rope, leather, acrylic, and metal. All of these materials are safe. However, you should check each toy to ensure that there aren’t other hazards such as entanglement (frayed rope or clips) or ingesting hazards (small parts). The size of the toy is also a key consideration. Most pet stores recommend what toys should be purchased for what size of parrots. However, there isn’t an industry standard in “sizing”. Check the size of the toy and match the size of the toy with the size of your parrot. A general sizing is small (Conures & Pionus) , medium (African Greys & Amazons), and large (Macaws & Large Cockatoos).
Buying toys is often how parrot owners start out getting toys for their parrots. After buying parrot toys for a while you will soon realize that the cost is very high. You will find yourself spending $10 for a toy with nothing to show after a couple hours of your parrot chewing on it. It’s very similar to feeding money into a shredder. Some parrots are better at destroying toys than others so some parrots require a lot more toys than others require. You will soon begin to realize that you can build your own toys a lot cheaper than you can buy them. Building your own toys is the cheapest way to get toys for your parrot. DIY (Do-It-Yourself) toys are a cost effective means to provide your parrot with toys. This does require some knowledge and experience using tools but only very basic tools. You might need a wood saw to cut wood, a drill to drill holes, and possibly a pair of pliers. You can purchase the wood at a local hardware store, bring it home and cut it up, then hang it from your bird’s cage using rope, wire, cloth, or leather strips. The DIY method also requires some creativity on your part. However, after looking at other toys at pet stores or online, you can come up with your own ideas about building your own toys. While this is the cheapest way to get toys, it does require a lot of cutting and drilling. There is a third option for those of you who don’t have the energy or inclination to dedicate this much effort. This option is a combination of buying toys and making toys.
The third option for getting toys is to combine the buying and making methods. In this case you purchase toy parts and make your own toys. These toy parts come in toy making kits where all the pieces are included and you just have to assemble them. These toy parts also come in packages that just include wood blocks or just include plastic blocks, or just include other parts. In this case, you may want to purchase several different packages of toy parts and mix and match them. This requires very little work because the toy parts are ready to assemble and don’t require cutting or drilling. And these DIY kits are often cheaper than the fully assembled toys. This option is how most long time parrot owners get toys for their parrots.
6 – How Can I Save Money on Toys?
There are several ways to save money on toys. The first option is to use common household materials to make toys and to supplement toys. Here’s the “Top Ten Cheap Materials to Use to Make Parrot Toys” It actually has sixteen items but who has ever heard of the “Top Sixteen List”?
1. Unscented Toilet Paper rolls and Paper Towel rolls – Most parrots love to shred these. You can put them with other toys or just hang them from their cage. Some recommend that you not use these items due to the glue on the rolls containing Zinc. You may want to watch your parrot the first time to see if they’re eating them or just shredding them before turning them loose to shred these.
2. Chinese Finger-Cuffs – That may not be the politically correct name for these. They’re the tubes that you put your fingers in and they tighten as you pull your fingers out. These can liven up any toy or be used alone and hung from the cage bars..
3. Magazine Inserts – You know those annoying things ads that fall out of magazines? Guess what your parrot thinks of them. They love to shred them. Some warn against giving these if they have ink on them but just watch your parrot the first time to see if they’re eating them or just shredding them before turning them loose to shred these.
4. Baby Key Rings – Baby toys usually make an excellent toy for parrots too. The baby key rings are a lot of fun and provide long lasting entertainment to your parrot.
5. Paper Cups, Plates, Straws – All of these are inexpensive and easy to chew for your parrots. Cut them and tie them together. The more creative you are, the more your parrot will appreciate them.
6. Ping Pong Balls – These provide good “hand” toys or if you poke a hole through them you can hang them in their cage or on their play-stand.
7. Pine Cones – If you have these available, they make a great toy. Make sure they’re clean before giving them to your parrot.
8. Newspapers – Just make sure the ink isn’t toxic. Roll the paper up into a tight roll and tie it together. A paper-log can provide hours of fun to your parrot or just minutes depending on what type of parrot you have.
9. Cardboard boxes – Small boxes can provide fun to your parrot and you as you watch your parrot experiment.
10. Ink Pens – Those plastic pins with the clicker button make an excellent toy. Just make sure you remove the ink part and the inside parts (clicker,spring,etc) before giving it to your parrot.
11. BONUS!–Wooden Clothes Pins – If you have any, these are great chew toys for parrots. Just make sure they’re the old style without the metal springs.
12. BONUS!–Worn Shoe String – Make sure they’re clean and use them to tie other toy parts together. Watch for frayed ends, which may get tangled in the parrots talons.
13. BONUS!–Rag Strips – Cut old (clean) rags up and tie them in knots. Just make sure they’re clean and watch for frayed ends, which may get tangled in the parrots talons.
14. BONUS!–Unscented Paper Towels – Just tie them around their cage bars or around toys and watch them shred these. This is also a good way to encourage a parrot to play with a new toy.
15. BONUS!–Coffee Filters – Just the plain cheap paper filters. Cut a hole through a bunch of them and tie them together with string or a leather strip. This is cheap and will provide a lot of entertainment.
16. BONUS!–Food Stuff – Some people use Cheerios and raw pasta to supplement their toys. They tie the Cheerios or raw pasta onto toys or just hang strings of them from the cage. I personally don’t like to mix food and toys but it’s just a personal preference.
17. BONUS!–Popsicle sticks – You can buy these at craft store at reasonable prices. If you use them after eating the Popsicle then rinse it thoroughly.
The second way to save money is to reuse and recycle old toys. It is important to regularly clean and rotate in new toys to keep your parrot healthy and stimulated. This is the perfect opportunity to clean and disassemble old toys and use the old parts with new parts to make new toys. This recycling saves money and also provides some familiarity to your bird when you rotate in new toys. This familiarity will encourage your bird to play with the new toys. Getting your parrot to play with new toys is sometimes a challenge. This topic is covered in the next section.
The third way to save money is to go to “Second Hand” stores such as “Goodwill” and “Salvation Army” stores. They probably don’t have bird toys but they do often have baby toys. Most baby toys are also safe for parrots. Be sure to heed the safety warnings earlier in this article. Most toys like wooden blocks use toxic free paints that make them usable by parrots. Also some of the toys such as the hard plastic baby key rings make excellent toys for parrots. There are excellent values to be found in these stores and these stores provide another way for you to save money on your parrot’s toys.
7 – How to Get Your Parrot to Play With Toys?
So either you spent $20 on a new toy or you spent 20 minutes making a new toy and you show it to your bird. Your anticipation and excitement level is about 10 on a scale from 1 to 10 but your bird’s excitement level is about a 1 on a scale from 1 to 10. What happened and how can you fix this problem? Some parrots are afraid of new things, some are afraid of certain colors, or just afraid of the way some objects look. These fears or your parrot’s shyness can challenge you and your parrot. Here are some ideas to overcome these fears and to encourage your parrot to play with toys.
* Introduce new toys slowly.
* Try new location in the cage
* Tie paper towels around the new toy
* Put a dab of peanut butter on it but make sure you wash it off later.
* Try the toy again in a couple months
* Recycle old toy parts into new toys
* Regularly rotate new toys into your bird’s environment
The first idea, “Introduce new toys slowly”, will vary depending on your parrot. Use the following process for very shy or frightful parrots.
1. Start with the new toy several feet from the cage but within sight of the bird.
2. Every other day move the toy closer to the cage
3. Put the toy in the bottom of the cage for a couple days.
4. When your parrot plays with it then hang it in the cage.
If you notice fear in your parrot at any point in the process then you should back up a step in the process and proceed slower.
8 – Top Ten Cheap DIY Toys
There are thousands of possible DIY toys that you can make your parrot. Here are ten ideas that require no tools and very little time.
1. Wrap a treat in a paper towel and tie both ends.
2. Use a clean cloth glove as a piata.
3. Take a piece of paper towel roll and put a treat inside it and crimp both ends.
4. Tie Paper Towels onto a string with wood blocks and hang it.
5. Poke holes into nuts and make a string of nuts and wood blocks.
6. Roll up a newspaper into a tight log, tie it in the middle, and hang it.
7. Poke holes into a stack of Magazine Inserts, thread them on a string with wooden blocks and hang it.
8. Glue Popsicle sticks together and hang it.
9. Put a Ping Pong ball inside a closed paper cub and hang it.
10. Any combination or mix of the 9 ideas above.
9 – Concluding Remarks
Hopefully this article has been a useful introduction to toys for your parrot. The topics in this article will help you save money, help you make entertaining toys, and help you provide your parrot with the stimulation and entertainment that it requires. The Internet is a good source for ideas. Check out the commercial toys for sale on the Internet and try to duplicate them. Have fun, be creative, and save some money.
Teaching Your Parrot to Talk
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Having talking parrots as pets goes way back to at least the time of Ancient Greeks. By the time of the Roman Empire it was even more common and courses were given to teach people how to get their birds to mimic human speech. The material covered in this article is much more effective than those courses of ancient times and the training myths of ancient times have been omitted. One of the craziest myths was that the parrot should be placed in a completely dark room during training.
As the following joke suggests, having a talking bird is one of the reasons that people purchase parrots.
One day a man went to an auction. While there, he bid on an exotic parrot. He really wanted this bird, so he got caught up in the bidding. He kept on bidding, but kept getting outbid, so he bid higher and higher and higher. Finally, after he bid way more than he intended, he won the bid – the fine bird was finally his!
As he was paying for the parrot, he said to the Auctioneer, “I sure hope this parrot can talk. I would hate to have paid this much for it, only to find out that he can’t talk!” “Don’t worry”, said the Auctioneer, “He can talk. Who do you think kept bidding against you?”
If you’re interested in having a talking bird, this introductory article is for you. This article will cover which birds are good “talkers” and will cover some techniques for encouraging your bird to be a “talker”. Whether parrots mimic or communicate using human speech has been fodder for debate for a long time. The Alex Studies by Dr. Pepperberg goes into great detail regarding this subject. Alex is a Congo African Grey Parrot that Dr. Pepperberg studied extensively. Some consider her studies, training techniques, and discoveries the foundation of modern avian cognitive understanding. If you are interested in the cognitive abilities of parrots and their “speech” capabilities, I recommend that you read her book. Though technical at times, I’m sure that you will find it a fascinating book. If you ever find yourself looking at your parrot and wondering what it is thinking or how much it understands then check out the links at the end of this article to her book.
Mimicking, Speaking, or Communicating
Let’s start with some ground rules for this article and a quick disclaimer. The terms used in this article may not be universally accepted. The terms that I use in this article are defined just to delineate the different categories of “Talking”. The word “Talking” has several meanings and depending on your level of technicality it also has several different implications. In my opinion, there are three basic categories of “talking”. The first and lowest level is “Mimicking”. This is simply the echoing of a word. In this case the parrot doesn’t associate the word with any object or action. A common example is when a parrot vocalizes “pretty bird”. Unless it’s a really vain parrot or there’s another pretty bird in the area then the parrot in this case is just vocalizing something that it has heard. The term “talking” in this article usually refers to mimicking but may also refer to “Speaking” or “Communicating” as defined below.
The second category of “talking” is “Speaking”. For the purposes of this article it means interacting appropriately to human speech. An example would be the parrot responding with its name when it is prompted with the question “What is your name?” At first glance this appears to be communication and it may be but it doesn’t prove communication. The parrot may have simply been conditioned to respond with its name when it hears this question. The parrot’s responsive behavior suggests a higher level of “speech” beyond simply mimicking. Since it is responding appropriately and not just mimicking, it is referred to as “speaking” in this article. This is much harder to teach than mimicking. One technique to teach “speaking” is to form the question using a boring tone and then provide the response in a more interesting tone. For example you may say “How are you doing today?” in a quiet calm tone then say “SUPER DUPER HOW ARE YOU?” in a louder more interesting tone. The parrot is more likely to begin saying “SUPER DUPER HOW ARE YOU?” in response to your question “How are you doing today”" just because it is more appealing. This is at least “mimicking” and may be “speaking” depending on who you ask.
The third category is “Communicating”. In this case, the parrot actually has an understanding of its vocalizations. This is sometimes referred to as cognitive speech. An example of this would be to show the parrot a red key that it has never seen before and ask the parrot “What color is this?” If the parrot responds with “red” then it is communicating. There is a subtle difference between “Speaking” and “Communicating”. For example, if the parrot is conditioned to say “red” when you show it a particular red key then it doesn’t necessarily have an understanding of red. It may just be conditioned to respond with “red” when it sees that particular object. Whereas, “communication” uses an unknown object so the parrots could not have been conditioned to respond with a particular word when presented with the object. As mentioned before, The Alex Studies by Dr. Pepperberg is an excellent source of information on this topic. You can find a link at the end of this article to her book.
What Birds Talk?
So what birds talk? As the buyer in the above joke correctly suggests, not all parrots talk. This is true of different species and different birds within a species. For example, African Grey Parrots are known to be excellent talkers but that doesn’t mean that all African Grey Parrots will talk. Hopefully your only reason for purchasing a parrot is not because it can talk. Parrots have so much more to offer than talking and you would be cheating yourself and your parrot if that is your only reason for getting a parrot. Talking should be considered a bonus and not a requirement. However, if “talking” is important, the only way to make sure that you are getting a parrot that will talk is to purchase a parrot that already talks. Having said that, there are certain species that are known to be more inclined to be good talkers. Here is a list of some parrot most likely to “talk” with the better known groups in parenthesis.
* African Grey
* Mynah (Greater hill)
* Amazons (Yellow-naped, Yellow-fronted, Double Yellow-headed, Blue-headed)
* Budgerigars
* Macaws (Blue and Gold)
* Cockatoos (Bare-eyed)
* Cockatiels
As mentioned previously, not all birds in the list will talk and not all birds that talk are in this list. The order of the list is a good approximation from best talkers (African Grey) down to not-the-best talkers. This list isn’t perfect and is just a basic guide with no guarantees. For example, there are some Cockatiels that talk better than some African Greys.
Three General Training Techniques
So you have a parrot that is capable of talking and you want to teach it to talk. This section will cover three basic techniques. These three techniques are Audio Recordings, Parent-Parrot teaching, and Modeling. The first two methods use useful for teaching your parrot to mimic. The second and third methods can be useful for teaching your parrot to “speak”. And finally the third method is most useful for teaching your parrot to communicate.
Technique #1 – Audio Recordings
The first technique is Audio Recordings. This may be an Audio CD or tape that you purchase or create that is capable of looping over and over. You can purchase these on the Internet or create them yourself with your home computer. Most people use this method during long periods of time when the parrot is alone. But does this technique work? The jury is still out on this one. Some people with some parrots have had some success with this method while others have not had success with this method. It is certainly not the best method to use but in some cases it can be effective. This is probably the most common technique used to teach the classic Andy Griffin Theme Song. However, the same thing played over and over will quickly become very boring. Parrots just like people will eventually tune out the boring stuff in their environment. For this reason it is recommended that you keep the sessions short. Sessions should be about fifteen-minute sessions 2 or 3 times a day. This technique is useful to teach “mimicking” as defined earlier. This is a cheap and easy way to teach your parrot to mimic. As with most things in life that are cheap and easy don’t be surprised if it doesn’t work.
Technique #2 – Parent-Parrot Teaching
The second technique is Parent-Parrot teaching. This is where you talk to your parrot. This method is effective because it provides your parrot with a very important need. That need is to bond with its “flock” and to communicate with it’s “flock”. In most cases, you’ll find that the more your talk and communicate with your parrot, the more it will respond and talk back. Most parrots are very social and thrive on this kind of attention. This method will never get boring to your parrot and can be fun for you and your parrot. If properly rewarded for talking, your bird will happily talk and talk and talk. You should talk to your parrot while feeding, cleaning, doing dishes, preparing meals, watching TV, walking through the house, etc, etc, etc. You can maximize this method by using your speech in context. If you’re putting food in the bowl then tell your parrot that you’re giving it food. If you’re cleaning the cage then tell your parrot that you are cleaning the cage. This method is useful for teaching “mimicking” and “speaking” as defined earlier.
Phrases that indicate mimicking are phrases such as “wanna peanut?” or “watcha doin?” In these cases it is just mimicking things that it has heard you vocalize. This method can also be used to teach communication as defined earlier. In this case you should use the same word is several different contexts. Examples would be “Do you want this peanut?”, “Here’s a peanut”, “This is a good peanut”, “is that peanut good?” Initially your parrot will mimic you and use the word out of context much like a child learning to speak. You can take the mimicking to the speaking level by simply correcting the parrot like you would a child. By doing this, you will eventually teach the parrot to use the word in context. For example it may begin to vocalize “this is a good peanut” when you give it a peanut. This technique can be used for teaching your parrot “mimicking” and “speaking” as defined earlier. This technique can also be used to a lesser degree to teach “speaking”. The third and final technique (Modeling) is more effective for teaching “speaking” and “communication”.
Technique #3 – Modeling
The third technique is “Modeling”. This is the method that Dr. Pepperberg discusses in her book The Alex Studies. This method involves two trainers (usually two humans) and the parrot. Though not practical for most of us, it can be very effective if you have the means to use this technique. The parrot takes turns being the “trainee” with the other human. An example would be to have the Trainer human and the trainee human demonstrate what is required while the parrot watches. For example, the Trainer may ask the trainee “what color is this” while holding up an object. The trainee will respond with “blue” and the trainer will respond with “no, the color is red”. The trainer will repeat the question and the trainee will respond with “red” and the trainer will reward the trainee for the correct answer. The reward may be verbal (“good girl”) or the reward may be a treat. Then the parrot will assume the role of the trainee while the human trainee watches and the process repeated. This method has been shown to be very effective in teaching birds, other animals, and humans with learning disabilities. This modeling technique was used to teach Alex the Congo African Grey for Dr Pepperberg’s studies. This method is effective at teaching “mimicking”, “speaking”, and “communication” as defined earlier.
As you may guess, the second technique is the most common technique used to teach pet parrots how to talk. This technique is more effective than using Audio Recordings and it only requires one “trainer” compared to the third technique. More importantly the second technique provides the perfect opportunity for the Parent to bond with the Parrot. This is a win-win technique because bonding is essential to the parrot’s well being and it provides a means to teach the parrot to talk. The next section covers some miscellaneous Tips, Do’s and Don’ts. Most directly apply to the second technique of Parent-Parrot teaching but also apply to the other techniques.
Tips, Do’s, and Don’ts
* Be patient.
* Make your vocalizations interesting.
* Have fun during talking training sessions.
* Keep training sessions short (10-15 minutes)
* Talk, Talk, Talk to you parrot.
* Talk in context to your parrot.
* Use diction, drama, and inflection to make your speech more interesting.
* Phrase your talk from the parrot’s perspective. “Give me a peanut” instead of “Do you want a peanut?”
* Reward your parrot when it talks with treats, praise, and/or attention.
* Start when your parrot is young (though not necessary).
* Communicate while out of site to simulate contact calls.
* Sing songs to your parrot.
* Tell stories to your parrot.
* Read stories to your parrot.
* Repeat phrases at appropriate times. For example “I want water” when giving fresh water.
* Start with words and work up to phrases.
* Pronounce words clearly.
* Don’t say words that you don’t want repeated.
* Create verbal cues such as saying “Good Morning” in the morning.
* Place the cage where your parrot hears family communication.
* Don’t teach whistling before teaching talking.
* Use interesting sounding words.
* For some reason words with “tt” seem to be favorites such as “pretty” or “kitty”.
* Use the word in different phrases “This is a peanut”, “Do you want a peanut”, “I like peanuts”
* Don’t put the parrot in a covered cage during training. This myth goes back to ancient Greek times.
* Do speech training early in the morning and at dusk if possible when most parrots are very talkative.
Summary
If you’ve ever heard a parrot joke, most likely it involves a talking parrot. The parrot’s ability to “talk” has captured our imagination for thousands of years. I’m sure that you will agree (if you own a parrot) that it’s ability to talk is just one of the many characteristics that make parrots fascinating companions. A lot of people purchase a parrot for their ability to talk but eventually learn that with or without it’s ability to talk, it is an awesome pet and companion.
Hopefully this introduction to teaching your parrot to talk has been useful. Check out some of the book links below if you’re interested in learning more. “The Pleasure of Their Company” by Bonnie Munro Doane and The Alex Studies by Dr. Pepperberg are two good sources to start with. You will be amazed with the Dr. Pepperberg’s successes and fascinated with her findings. Though technical at times and not necessarily a required reading for all parrot owners it is a fascinating book.